MERCENARY CONDUCT OF THE DISDAR. 293
in the first volume, which was published during his life-time, his
drawings of the sculpture of Athens, have neither the character nor
the details of the originals, as may be seen by comparing them with
those same marbles Avhich have since been placed in the British
Museum.
The Acropolis first attracts the curiosity of the traveller, and
merits as much attention as all the lower town; for what is there in
Athens that can compare with the Acropolis in antiquity, in splen-
dour, or in interest? Upon a first admission within these venerable
Walls, it is necessary to make a small present to the Disdar, or
Turkish governor; and an additional present is required for permis-
sion at any future time to make drawings and observations, without
being molested by the soldiers of the garrison. The whole of these
presents generally amount to eighty or a hundred Turkish piastres.
Being aware, from the experience I had had on my former visit
to Athens, that the Disdar was a man of bad faith and insatiable
rapacity, I made him a small present the first day, and begged
the English agent to conclude a bargain with him for eighty piastres ;
in consideration of which, I was to have free access to the Acropolis
as often as I chose. In order to prevent the Disdar from exacting a
larger sum, it was stipulated that the payment should take place after
I had completed all my drawings and observations. Many clays
however had not elapsed before the Disdar became impatient for
the money, and asked me for a part of the promised sum : upon
my refusal of which he prohibited my admission to the Acropolis.
But when I returned, I succeeded in gaining an entrance, after en-
during some insolent speeches from the soldiers, which I pretended
not to understand. At length however I obtained their good
graces by making some small presents to their children, who be-
came so accustomed to this kind of tribute, that they used to watch
for me over the wall of the citadel; and whenever I returned I al-
ways found them collected at the door. By throwing a few paras
amongst them, I acquired the name of the Frank of many Paras,
and for a small expense purchased the civility of the soldiers. The
in the first volume, which was published during his life-time, his
drawings of the sculpture of Athens, have neither the character nor
the details of the originals, as may be seen by comparing them with
those same marbles Avhich have since been placed in the British
Museum.
The Acropolis first attracts the curiosity of the traveller, and
merits as much attention as all the lower town; for what is there in
Athens that can compare with the Acropolis in antiquity, in splen-
dour, or in interest? Upon a first admission within these venerable
Walls, it is necessary to make a small present to the Disdar, or
Turkish governor; and an additional present is required for permis-
sion at any future time to make drawings and observations, without
being molested by the soldiers of the garrison. The whole of these
presents generally amount to eighty or a hundred Turkish piastres.
Being aware, from the experience I had had on my former visit
to Athens, that the Disdar was a man of bad faith and insatiable
rapacity, I made him a small present the first day, and begged
the English agent to conclude a bargain with him for eighty piastres ;
in consideration of which, I was to have free access to the Acropolis
as often as I chose. In order to prevent the Disdar from exacting a
larger sum, it was stipulated that the payment should take place after
I had completed all my drawings and observations. Many clays
however had not elapsed before the Disdar became impatient for
the money, and asked me for a part of the promised sum : upon
my refusal of which he prohibited my admission to the Acropolis.
But when I returned, I succeeded in gaining an entrance, after en-
during some insolent speeches from the soldiers, which I pretended
not to understand. At length however I obtained their good
graces by making some small presents to their children, who be-
came so accustomed to this kind of tribute, that they used to watch
for me over the wall of the citadel; and whenever I returned I al-
ways found them collected at the door. By throwing a few paras
amongst them, I acquired the name of the Frank of many Paras,
and for a small expense purchased the civility of the soldiers. The