VOYAGE INTO UPPER EGYPT.
35
Beyond the promontory lay a desert plain of con-
siderable extent, with a few houses collected together
under the lofty rocks where the road branches off to
Es Souan/' and on the high bank near the stream a
number of Jaloups were hutted, with a few slaves and
a quantity of dates, and other goods, upon which an
import duty is levied at Es Souan. The river sweeps
in a majestic curve round the island of Philae, which
is separated by a smaller branch of the stream from
Rigge, and is adorned with most beautiful ruins, seen
to great effect amongst trees and verdure. The whole
of the island appears to have been covered formerly
with temples, and surrounded by a wall; and even
now there are but few spots capable of cultivation:
after visiting this interesting spot, I returned to the
boat.
12th. — The wind being fair, we passed the only fall
which could be termed a cataract. No danger can occur
with good cordage; but if the tow-lines gave way, the
boat would probably be dashed to pieces, by the rapidity
and force of the stream, against the numerous rocks
above and below the water. We were nearly twenty
minutes in getting through this place, as the rudder
broke just in the critical moment. Having paid the
people and the pilot, we again proceeded, passed Philae,
and the temple of Debode and arrived at Gertassee.
The Nubians are tributary to the Pacha, and for-
merly paid for each sakia two slaves; they procured
0 This place, and also the Cataracts, are called Schayl; a name by
which this part of Nubia is also sometimes distinguished.
35
Beyond the promontory lay a desert plain of con-
siderable extent, with a few houses collected together
under the lofty rocks where the road branches off to
Es Souan/' and on the high bank near the stream a
number of Jaloups were hutted, with a few slaves and
a quantity of dates, and other goods, upon which an
import duty is levied at Es Souan. The river sweeps
in a majestic curve round the island of Philae, which
is separated by a smaller branch of the stream from
Rigge, and is adorned with most beautiful ruins, seen
to great effect amongst trees and verdure. The whole
of the island appears to have been covered formerly
with temples, and surrounded by a wall; and even
now there are but few spots capable of cultivation:
after visiting this interesting spot, I returned to the
boat.
12th. — The wind being fair, we passed the only fall
which could be termed a cataract. No danger can occur
with good cordage; but if the tow-lines gave way, the
boat would probably be dashed to pieces, by the rapidity
and force of the stream, against the numerous rocks
above and below the water. We were nearly twenty
minutes in getting through this place, as the rudder
broke just in the critical moment. Having paid the
people and the pilot, we again proceeded, passed Philae,
and the temple of Debode and arrived at Gertassee.
The Nubians are tributary to the Pacha, and for-
merly paid for each sakia two slaves; they procured
0 This place, and also the Cataracts, are called Schayl; a name by
which this part of Nubia is also sometimes distinguished.