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AND LOWER EGYPT. 239

certainly have destroyed me, as being one of his
creatures. I accordingly took, very much against
my inclination, the only step which remained,
that of going down the Nile again, the ferocity of
the inhabitants softening a little, as well as the
darkness of their colour, in proportion as you re-
turn towards the north ; besides, I had less to fear
in falling in with the partisans of Mourat Bey.

The Arabian Schclck of Luxor urged me not to
delay my departure, but I wished to go once more
to the western bank of the river to Gournei, in order
to view the remains of the ancient city of Thebes,
which were on that side. This point of Thebai's was
considered as the most difficult of approach on ac-
count of the multitude of robbers by whom alone it
was peopled. I have heard the Kiaschef of Kous sav,
that he dared not travel there with his small party
of Mamelucs and soldiers. The Scheick of Luxcr,
one of those whose upright and hospitable beha-
viour appeared to a greater advantage in a country
where they are accustomed to promise much and
to perform nothing; this Scheick, I say, also endea-
voured to dissuade me from my plan ; and when
he saw that I was resolved not to give it up, he
pointed out to me, with much polite condescen-
sion, the prudential arrangements which might
contribute to my safety. This gallant man would
accompany me even to the boat which carried mc

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