chap, xlix.] FARE AT THE FATTORIA. 313
As an excursion to the necropolis in the Pian di Palma
demands half a day, I deferred it to the morrow. On
returning to my quarters I found the fattore and his
people ahout to sit down to their evening meal. "Whether
something extraordinary had been prepared on my account,
I cannot say, but I am certain no English peasant sits
down nightly to such a supper as this, which needed no
apologies from Signor Gaspare. There was soup, beef,
kid, poultry, game, and a dessert of dried fruits and cheese,
all the produce of the estate — cooked in the spacious
hall in which it was served, and by the labouring men,
who on bringing a dish to table sat down and partook of
it. It was a patriarchal and excellent meal—
Prorsus jucunde ccenam produximus illam !
I was no less satisfied with the accommodation up stairs,
where everything did credit to the fattore and his men ;
for, be it known, to all this crew of shepherds and swains
there was not one
" Phyllis, Charyllis, or sweet Amaryllis "—
not " one fair spirit for a minister."
Let future visitors to Saturnia follow my example, and
exchange the hostelry for the palace. No one of course
can receive accommodation in this way gratis ; and if the
traveller pay double what he would in the osteria, he is no
loser, seeing he gains comfort, preserves his skin and his
temper, and retains a pleasing remembrance of the place.
Happy he who in his by-road wanderings in Italy meets
no worse welcome than from the sun-ruddied face and
jovial smile of Signor Gaspare!
sano. That to Rusellse is also very the north, which probably led from
traceable ; and I observed some vestiges the Porta di Montagna, I did not
of that running eastward; but that to perceive.
As an excursion to the necropolis in the Pian di Palma
demands half a day, I deferred it to the morrow. On
returning to my quarters I found the fattore and his
people ahout to sit down to their evening meal. "Whether
something extraordinary had been prepared on my account,
I cannot say, but I am certain no English peasant sits
down nightly to such a supper as this, which needed no
apologies from Signor Gaspare. There was soup, beef,
kid, poultry, game, and a dessert of dried fruits and cheese,
all the produce of the estate — cooked in the spacious
hall in which it was served, and by the labouring men,
who on bringing a dish to table sat down and partook of
it. It was a patriarchal and excellent meal—
Prorsus jucunde ccenam produximus illam !
I was no less satisfied with the accommodation up stairs,
where everything did credit to the fattore and his men ;
for, be it known, to all this crew of shepherds and swains
there was not one
" Phyllis, Charyllis, or sweet Amaryllis "—
not " one fair spirit for a minister."
Let future visitors to Saturnia follow my example, and
exchange the hostelry for the palace. No one of course
can receive accommodation in this way gratis ; and if the
traveller pay double what he would in the osteria, he is no
loser, seeing he gains comfort, preserves his skin and his
temper, and retains a pleasing remembrance of the place.
Happy he who in his by-road wanderings in Italy meets
no worse welcome than from the sun-ruddied face and
jovial smile of Signor Gaspare!
sano. That to Rusellse is also very the north, which probably led from
traceable ; and I observed some vestiges the Porta di Montagna, I did not
of that running eastward; but that to perceive.