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136 COSTUMES.

shoes, ox papoutzia, are of red or yellow leather; but these colours,
particularly the yellow, cannot be worn by the Greeks in the presence
of the Turks without permission; black is the colour used by the
common people. The travelling shoe or tzaronche is of a soft brown
leather, pliable and adhering to the foot; the upper part of it is
strengthened with strings, the l^avreg of the ancients, made with the
intestines of sheep. The point of the shoe is terminated with a black
silk tassel. This shoe is the EayJaXta Xeyrroa-x'^ of the ancients; and the
Calceoli repandi of Cicero,1 so called from the extremity pointing up-
wards. It was according to the orator a part of the distinctive cos-
tume of Juno Sospita or Lanuvina ; the most entire representation of
which is a bas-relief in bronze, found near Perugia,2 the colossal
statue in the Vatican being restored from the description of Cicero,
and from coins, on which the goddess is represented with her pointed
shoes.

The most curious part of the Arnaut dress is their boots, which
they wear in war and in travelling; they are of silver, sometimes gilt,
and curiously worked; they are in general made to cover the back
and inside of the leg about halfway up from the instep, and being of
different pieces united together, yields to the motion of the leg. Two
circular and concave bits of silver are fitted to the ancle bones, to
defend that prominent and tender part, so easily injured in tra-
velling on foot amongst rocks and forests; they are sometimes
worn also on the outside of the knees. These defences are called
atyvpoa-tpvpa, from the material and form, and are sometimes worn
without the boot, being attached to the leg by thongs. I conceive
they were used by the ancients, and that Homer3 alludes to them
when he says,

Kv/jpcidxg pcsv Tvpura. Trepi xvypiycrtv eSyxe

KaXaj, upyvpeoicTiv £7ri<r(pupiotg apocputocg.
which Pope translates " with silver buckles/'

1 De Nat. Deor. 2 jn iq\o ; n0w in my possession.

Hliad, 11. v. 18 and 19. v. 369.
 
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