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PUNCH, OP THE LONDON CHARIVARI.

[July 5, 1884,

OUR mSANE-iTARY GUiDE TO THE HEALTH
EXHIBITION.

Paht IV.—The “ Costumerles.”

Perhaps the most popular Exhibits of the Great South Kensington
Show are to he seen on the Western side of the Conservatory at the
end of the Horticultural Gardens. Here the Hon. Lewis Wing-
field has arranged, with the assistance of Madame Tussaud and
Messrs. Auguste and Nathan, what may be called a “ figurative ”
history of English dress from the time of the Norman Conquest. A
few days ago this most accomplished of gentlemen was announced to
lecture upon the subject he had so admirably illustrated in the Con-
ference Hall. Mr. George Augustus Sala was announced to be iu
the Chair. I need scarcely say that I rushed to Brompton to assist at
the entertainment. When I entered the apartment devoted to Art
and Science I found the walls covered with serio-comic pictures of
drains and fire-places. Mr. Wingfield had seemingly backed out of
his engagement at the last moment, for a very sweetly-spoken
middle-aged Gentleman was lecturing in his place. The very sweetly-
spoken middle-aged Gentleman had a long thin pole, with which he
pointed out his diagrams. Occasionally he hit upon the wrong
picture for identification and then corrected himself with a smile and
a blush. Mr. Geokge Augustus Sala was also absent, his place being
taken by a nautical Gentleman wearing large gold-rimmed spectacles,
who appeared to be subject to yawnomania and chronic weariness.
The sweetly-spoken Lecturer was a little monotonous, but seemed
always able to secure a certain amount of applause from his languid
auditory by looking at his watch. Being a little distance from the
speaker I could not hear very well all he said. However, from what
I could gather here and there I imagine he must have been deeply
interested from his childhood up in chimneys. I am firmly of the
impression, too, that he announced that he had spent the very best
years of his life in vainly trying to persuade people to burn coal. It
was at this point that it occurred to me that chimneys and coals,
although charming subjects in themselves, when all was said and
done, had no very near connection with dress.

This thought caused me to make further inquiries, when I ascer-
tained. that Mr. Wingfield had lectured to Mr. Sala earlier iu the
day, and that I was now listening to a Gentleman who was devoting
every energy of his mind to the consideration of household drains.
On making this discovery, as I had come to the Exhibition especially
to see the English Costumes, I determined to depart. However, I
did not tear myself away from the Conference Hall without regret,
as the Lecturer, as I rose to leave, was just describing a sort of
“practical-jocular” study, which he said he had built (no doubt
when his wife was not looking) in his house. So far as I could make
out the specialite of this eccentric apartment was absence of the
proper complement of walls. The Lecturer had left one side of the
room completely open to the weather. When I last saw him he was
earnestly attempting to induce the front row of his audience to
follow his example and erect “practical-jocular” studies of their
own. I could not see what effect this appeal had upon the spectators,
but. from the demeanour of the Nautical Chairman I am snre that he
was under the impression that the sweetly-spoken wag of a
Demonstrator was trying hard “ to pull his leg.”

There was a crowd in the Arcade devoted to Costume. I took the
glass cases, containing the richly-dressed effigies of the Ancient
Britons, one after another, and these are my notes :—

Period of William the First.—The persons represented in this
group seem to be suffering from their too close proximity to the
Refreshment Department. They may be said to belong to the
dark ages, as hardly anything can be seen of them, thanks to every
atom of light being shut out by the back of a beer, wine, and spirit
bar. Further description consequently impracticable.

Period of Henry the First.—Little f'unniment on the part of
Mr. Lewis Wingfield. Incongruous effect produced by introducing,
as a servant of the time, an effigy of the late Tom Sayeks.

Period of Henry the Third.—Here again an amusing notion. The
mirth-creating Designer of the Costumes would have us believe, by
representing her in the flesh or rather in the wax, that Mrs. Manning
i the Murderess “ flourished ” during this reign.

Period of Edward the First.—More of Mr. Wingfield’s drollery.
Here we have, as a prominent member of the group, Mr. Oscae
Wvlde before his hair was cut.

Period of Richard the Second.—The smile-inviting Designer in
this case seems to be rather at fault. He appears to have exhausted
his list’of celebrities. However, apparently as an afterthought, he
introduces Miss Bateman as Leah.

Period of Henry the Sixth.—Perhaps the drollest, notion in the
! whole collection. Mr. Wingfield, seemingly, has induced Madame
Tussaud’s Representative to furnish him with the worst looking
female from the Chamber of Horrors, and then has labelled her
' “ Housewife, from a window in Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral! ”

Period of Edward the Fourth.—This case is always the centre
of an admiring throng. The great attraction is a smock-frock.

which differs very slightly in pattern from those worn in the present
day. The discovery of this curious fact by the visitors to the
Exhibition causes amongst them boundless enthusiasm.

Period of Henry the Seventh [two cases).—Nothing very striking,
save that the footmen in those days, seemingly, wore white-kid
boots. Mr. Wingfield depressed.

Period of Elizabeth,—Mr. Wingfield a little more cheerful. We
find him trying to persuade us that “the Virgin Queen” was the
inventress of the modern “ chimney-pot hat.”

Period of James the First.—Mr. Wingfield quite himself again.
In this reign, he boldly asserts, by illustration, that the modern
“ stick-up collar ” with the corners bent down was worn. Well, well,
perhaps if was, perhaps it was ! Mr. Wingfield must have his joke !

Period of Charles the First.—Ah, to be sure! First introduction
of the wide-awake ! Mr. Wingfield will be the death of us !

Period of the Commonivealth.—The fun-suggesting Designer here :
has a “ hit ” at Cromwell and his party. He suggests that it was at
this time that Muffs were first introduced. Muffs ! Good! Subtle ! j
Period of the Restoration.—Return of the Wide-awake ! Capital!
Could not be better! Again very subtle, indeed! Mr. Wingfield
announces, d propos of this group, “ that the men are from a print
of Chakles dining at Whitehall.” The “men,” to judge from their
staggering gait, had been dining too!

Period of Anne.—Here Mr. Wingfield resigns, for a moment,
his jester’s bauble to Mr. Fox, the eminent perruquier, who absolutely
rollicks in wigs. This seems rather a mistake, as a substitute for
the dry delicate bouquet of the laughter-provoking Designer’s drollery
is not easily found.

Period of George the Second (two cases).—Mr. Wingfield once more
depressed. Perhajis (as he himself would say) “ dished by the wigs.”
Period of George the Third (two cases).—Final burst of fun and
waggery. Mr. Wingfield can be no longer serious, and treats all
the fashions of the latter end of the Eighteenth Century and the
Regency, in a spirit of the broadest burlesque.

Having disposed of the Civil Costumes, we can turn our attention to
the uniform of the British Army from the time of its creation. It
was said at the opening of the Exhibition that the clothes of the
figures were supplied by the War Office, and the heads and hands by
the Representatives of Madame Tussaud. It is to be presumed that
Mr. Wingfield must have had the direction of this collection also,
as the same dry, delicate bouquet of exquisite drollery already
noticed is easily distinguishable in the selection of effigies. Thus the
following historical characters, among many others, are introduced :—
Prince von Bismarck (Cavalry Soldier, 1860), Lord Panmure
(Infantry Soldier, same date), King William the Fourth (Infantry
Soldier, 1812), Lord Nelson (Cavalry Soldier, same date), Robes-
pierre (Infantry Soldier, 1770), and Liston, the Comic Actor
(Cavalry Soldier, same date). Lord Byron and Jack Shepherd,
and some of the earlier English Kings (without their beards and
whiskers) are pressed into the Service as representatives of the
soldiers of the House of Stuart. The faces of the warriors chosen
to wear the defensive armour of the Tudor Period are of so swarthy
a hue that it is subtly suggested that soap could not have been
possibly invented before the time of Charles the First. But, j
seriously, Mr. Wingfield has done his work admirably, and there is !
no more deservedly popular department in the South Kensington
Show than that devoted to “ the Dresses.”

EPITHALAMIC TRIOLETS.

(Henry the Seventh's Chapel, June 26.)

Hall am Tennyson, Audrey Boyle,

Aptly the Saxon names approach
One another and closely coil;

Likeness never a love did spoil;

Best-matched teams plough the richest soil,
Best-matched teams draw the quickest coach.

Westminster ringers gladly toil,

Give out triples beyond reproach,

Splendid as iron, soft as oil;

Bride and bridegroom nought can embroil,

They ’re birds of race and Saxon soil—
Tennyson and the Boyle called Roche.

Mrs. Ramsbotham has been getting up poetry lately. She gets it
up like fine linen, and makes a brave show occasionally. A propos
of some warm theological discussion, she came out with—

For forms of faith let graceful zealots fight.

He can’t be wrong who’s always in the right.

To which she added the comment, “ And, after all, though it’s in
poetry, yet it is but another way of putting the old proverb, ‘ None
are so blind as those who can’t see.’ ” The force of muddle could no
further go-
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