DOI issue:
September 29, 1860
DOI Page / Citation link:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.16866#0137
September 29, I860.] PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI.
129
to illustrate the evils of tight-lacing, which is still one of the weak-
nesses of the weaker sex. Indeed a stronger term than “ weakness”
ought to stigmatise such folly, seeing that it sometimes amounts almost
to suicide, for it entails a certain sacrilice of health if not of life. A
“good figure” is no doubt an enviable possession, but its attainment is
too commonly attended with bad health; and husbands as a rule think
far less of fashion than they do of flesh and blood, and are less likely to
be caught by a pair of well-shaped stays than by a pair ol rosy cheeks.
Girdles handsomely embroidered and embossed with gold and silver
were generally worn over the kirtle and cote hardie, and were girt
loosely on the hips, and not round the waist. A sort of pouch or
reticule, which was called a gypsire, was worn pendent from the girdle,
occupying much about the same position as the chatelaines which
lately were in fashionable use. As it was tastefully embroidered, no
doubt the gypsire was at times merely worn by way of ornament; and
we learn that a small dagger was occasionally stuck through it, which
doubtlessly was likewise only worn for decoration, or if ever it was
used, it surely must have been for some such peaceful purpose as
piercing a few button holes, or stabbing a plum cake.
The hair was still worn in a fret or caul of golden network, which
sometimes was surmounted by a coronet of jewels, and sometimes by a
wreath of flowers, or
else simply by a veil.
At tournaments,
however, and at pic-
nics (if there were
any) ladies mostly
wore short hoods,
and wrapped round
their heads like cords
t he “ lirripipes,” or
“ tippets,” which
were the long
streamers depending
from the hoods.
Wimples still re-
mained in vogue for
the protection of the
tnnat, although they
were not worn so
commonly as during
the last century; but
the ugly clumsy gor-
get, which, we have
seeD, was introduced
in the reign of Ed-
ward the First,
appears to have been
kicked into the dust-
hole of oblivion, for
we find no mention
that it was still in use. Coverchiefs or kerchiefs were still worn by
way of head-dress among the middle classes, but by the swellesses it
seems they had mostly been discarded. Chaucer’s Wife of Bath, he
tells us, wore them once a week; and if she had any tendency to
headache, we can scarcely wonder that she did not wear them oftener,
for he expressly mentions that they were “full fine of ground” (what-
ever that may mean) and he adds:—
“ I durste swere that they weighed a pound.
That on the Sonday were upon hir bedde :
Hire hosen weren of fine scarlett redde,
Ful streit yteyed, and shoon full moist and newe.”
We learn too of this lady :—
“ Upon an ambler easily she satte,
Y wimpled well, and on hire hede an hat
As brode as a bokeler or a targe.
A footo mantel about hire hippes large.
And on hire feet a paire of sporres sharpe.”
With the exception perhaps of the wimple and the spurs this des-
cription might have fairly been applied to the Miss Browns, Miss
Joneses and Miss Smiths, who a season or two since were wont to
amble about on donkeys by the sad sea-waves at Ramsgate ; for the
round hats which they wore were every bit as broad as bucklers, and
really looked as though they ought to have been worn in a broad
farce.
The Long Vacation.
The King of Naples has had so many troubles lately, and has
been oppressed with so much business of a most moving and distress-
ing nature, that it is not to be wondered at if he has gone into the
country just to enjoy a little Gaeta.
CLUBS AND CHARITIES.
To Mr. Punch.
“ Sir, “ Club, Pall-Mall, Friday.'
“ I am ashamed to put a more specific address, for it is a dis-
graceful thing to be in town at such a time as this, but an Irish friend’s
having unaccountably forgotten to remit the money for a bill which 1
accepted for him as ‘ the merest matter of forrum ’ has compelled me
to come up, and all my business friends having in the most unbusiness-
like manner taken themselves off to Southend, Switzerland, and similar
places, I am unhappily obliged to remain arid collect my funds viis et
modis. I am sure that you will sympathise in my humiliation, and be
content to forego the inclosure of a card, which I am aware you usually
insist upon. I am a gentleman. Sir, although in town at the end of
September.
“ Having much leisure, I read all the papers at my club, as much to
avoid the contemptuous looks of such of the servants as are not
grouse-shooting as for any interest I can take in literature at such a
time.
“ I perceive that a Reverend Gentleman by the name of Kempe (which
reminds me of Kemp Town, whicli is bad enough, but better than
London in the autumn) has been publishing a complaint that the Clubs
of London occupy the best parts of the best parishes, but do not con-
tribute to parochial charities, except by sending out their broken meat
to the churchwardens, and such like. The Reverend Gentleman wants
the Clubs to come down handsomely with benefactions.
“Now, upon my life, Sir, one always knew that of all the unhesi-
tating mendicants the parsons are the most unblushing, and that out
of every dozen letters on a fellow’s table there is sure to be one from a
Reverend, inclosing a statement that in the parish of St. Miasma,
or St. Fetida-cum-Drains, there is no Church accommodation for eleven
hundred heathens and a half, for whose benefit he sends you a
perforated card, into which you are to insert a shilling of your last
winnings at billiards or poker, aud thus bless the residue and remainder.
But, really, when a Reverend Gentleman asks a Club to apply its
subscriptions in aid of the poor-rates, I can only say that he is a
cooler card than the perforated pasteboard.
“Why, Sir, does the Reverend K. know that at this very moment
half the Clubs in London want more billiard accommodation ? Does
he know that port wine is getting dearer and dearer every day, and
that it is the bounden duty of every Committee to lay down evei*y good
pipe they can hear of ? Does he know. Sir, that we want more warm
baths built ? Is he acquainted with the price of tobacco ? or does he
need to be told that very few Club cigars are fit to smoke, in conse-
quence of the dearness of the article and the reluctance of men to give
more than eightpence or ninepence for a weed? Is he aware that our
libraries, especially the French novel departments, are far from com-
plete, and that from the absence of duplicate sets a man has often to
wait a couple of days for the last Paris story, especially if an English
dramatic author gets hold of it ? Can he have been apprised that Club
servants are very expensive, and that, owing to the insufficient attend-
ance, a fellow has often to wait three minutes before his table can be
cleared and the wine brought ? I am not hostile to the Clergy, Sir,
far from it, and I willingly assume that the Reverend Gentleman is
uninformed of these facts, and that his preposterous proposition would
never have been made had he possessed ampler knowledge. But in
the face of this painful destitution, in the presence of these revolting
details, it is mockery to ask the Clubs to squander funds in charity.
“ I do not insist, Sir, upon the impropriety of a Club’s making a
public contribution, and proclaiming its almsgiving, though such a
thought might have occurred to a minister of the Establishment. But
charity should be a secret matter, of which the world should have no
knowledge. ‘What I give is nothing to nobody’ was the admirable
remark of one of the most distinguished Members of Parliament. The
ostentation which would be manifested by Club donations would be most
objectionable to the feelings of Club-men, who are celebrated for prac-
tising the truly Christian virtue of retiring modesty upon the subject
of any good deeds they may do, should they happen to do any.
“ 1 will only add, Sir, that should the plausible but most improper
appeal of the Rev. Mr. Kempe produce any effect upon our Com-
mittee (not that I would wrong them by believing it possible), I, for
one, will leave no stone unturned to eject that Committee from office at
the earliest opportunity, and I have the honour to be, Sir,
“ Your very obedient Servant,
“Thomas Antikempis.”
“ P.S. The poor, I am given to understand, have Clubs of their own.
Let them apply there for assistance, if they want it. We occasionally
send the hat round for a Swell—properly recommended by Swells—so
it is unjust to accuse us of illiberality.”
PORTRAIT OF il YE WIFE OF BATH.” FROM MR. PUNCH’S
COPY OF CHAUCER.
Character Read in a Weed.—The thistle is a fit emblem for
Scotland—it is so remarkably downy.
The Movement of Events in Italy.—“St. Peter’s Chair stops
the way.”
Vol. 39.
a
129
to illustrate the evils of tight-lacing, which is still one of the weak-
nesses of the weaker sex. Indeed a stronger term than “ weakness”
ought to stigmatise such folly, seeing that it sometimes amounts almost
to suicide, for it entails a certain sacrilice of health if not of life. A
“good figure” is no doubt an enviable possession, but its attainment is
too commonly attended with bad health; and husbands as a rule think
far less of fashion than they do of flesh and blood, and are less likely to
be caught by a pair of well-shaped stays than by a pair ol rosy cheeks.
Girdles handsomely embroidered and embossed with gold and silver
were generally worn over the kirtle and cote hardie, and were girt
loosely on the hips, and not round the waist. A sort of pouch or
reticule, which was called a gypsire, was worn pendent from the girdle,
occupying much about the same position as the chatelaines which
lately were in fashionable use. As it was tastefully embroidered, no
doubt the gypsire was at times merely worn by way of ornament; and
we learn that a small dagger was occasionally stuck through it, which
doubtlessly was likewise only worn for decoration, or if ever it was
used, it surely must have been for some such peaceful purpose as
piercing a few button holes, or stabbing a plum cake.
The hair was still worn in a fret or caul of golden network, which
sometimes was surmounted by a coronet of jewels, and sometimes by a
wreath of flowers, or
else simply by a veil.
At tournaments,
however, and at pic-
nics (if there were
any) ladies mostly
wore short hoods,
and wrapped round
their heads like cords
t he “ lirripipes,” or
“ tippets,” which
were the long
streamers depending
from the hoods.
Wimples still re-
mained in vogue for
the protection of the
tnnat, although they
were not worn so
commonly as during
the last century; but
the ugly clumsy gor-
get, which, we have
seeD, was introduced
in the reign of Ed-
ward the First,
appears to have been
kicked into the dust-
hole of oblivion, for
we find no mention
that it was still in use. Coverchiefs or kerchiefs were still worn by
way of head-dress among the middle classes, but by the swellesses it
seems they had mostly been discarded. Chaucer’s Wife of Bath, he
tells us, wore them once a week; and if she had any tendency to
headache, we can scarcely wonder that she did not wear them oftener,
for he expressly mentions that they were “full fine of ground” (what-
ever that may mean) and he adds:—
“ I durste swere that they weighed a pound.
That on the Sonday were upon hir bedde :
Hire hosen weren of fine scarlett redde,
Ful streit yteyed, and shoon full moist and newe.”
We learn too of this lady :—
“ Upon an ambler easily she satte,
Y wimpled well, and on hire hede an hat
As brode as a bokeler or a targe.
A footo mantel about hire hippes large.
And on hire feet a paire of sporres sharpe.”
With the exception perhaps of the wimple and the spurs this des-
cription might have fairly been applied to the Miss Browns, Miss
Joneses and Miss Smiths, who a season or two since were wont to
amble about on donkeys by the sad sea-waves at Ramsgate ; for the
round hats which they wore were every bit as broad as bucklers, and
really looked as though they ought to have been worn in a broad
farce.
The Long Vacation.
The King of Naples has had so many troubles lately, and has
been oppressed with so much business of a most moving and distress-
ing nature, that it is not to be wondered at if he has gone into the
country just to enjoy a little Gaeta.
CLUBS AND CHARITIES.
To Mr. Punch.
“ Sir, “ Club, Pall-Mall, Friday.'
“ I am ashamed to put a more specific address, for it is a dis-
graceful thing to be in town at such a time as this, but an Irish friend’s
having unaccountably forgotten to remit the money for a bill which 1
accepted for him as ‘ the merest matter of forrum ’ has compelled me
to come up, and all my business friends having in the most unbusiness-
like manner taken themselves off to Southend, Switzerland, and similar
places, I am unhappily obliged to remain arid collect my funds viis et
modis. I am sure that you will sympathise in my humiliation, and be
content to forego the inclosure of a card, which I am aware you usually
insist upon. I am a gentleman. Sir, although in town at the end of
September.
“ Having much leisure, I read all the papers at my club, as much to
avoid the contemptuous looks of such of the servants as are not
grouse-shooting as for any interest I can take in literature at such a
time.
“ I perceive that a Reverend Gentleman by the name of Kempe (which
reminds me of Kemp Town, whicli is bad enough, but better than
London in the autumn) has been publishing a complaint that the Clubs
of London occupy the best parts of the best parishes, but do not con-
tribute to parochial charities, except by sending out their broken meat
to the churchwardens, and such like. The Reverend Gentleman wants
the Clubs to come down handsomely with benefactions.
“Now, upon my life, Sir, one always knew that of all the unhesi-
tating mendicants the parsons are the most unblushing, and that out
of every dozen letters on a fellow’s table there is sure to be one from a
Reverend, inclosing a statement that in the parish of St. Miasma,
or St. Fetida-cum-Drains, there is no Church accommodation for eleven
hundred heathens and a half, for whose benefit he sends you a
perforated card, into which you are to insert a shilling of your last
winnings at billiards or poker, aud thus bless the residue and remainder.
But, really, when a Reverend Gentleman asks a Club to apply its
subscriptions in aid of the poor-rates, I can only say that he is a
cooler card than the perforated pasteboard.
“Why, Sir, does the Reverend K. know that at this very moment
half the Clubs in London want more billiard accommodation ? Does
he know that port wine is getting dearer and dearer every day, and
that it is the bounden duty of every Committee to lay down evei*y good
pipe they can hear of ? Does he know. Sir, that we want more warm
baths built ? Is he acquainted with the price of tobacco ? or does he
need to be told that very few Club cigars are fit to smoke, in conse-
quence of the dearness of the article and the reluctance of men to give
more than eightpence or ninepence for a weed? Is he aware that our
libraries, especially the French novel departments, are far from com-
plete, and that from the absence of duplicate sets a man has often to
wait a couple of days for the last Paris story, especially if an English
dramatic author gets hold of it ? Can he have been apprised that Club
servants are very expensive, and that, owing to the insufficient attend-
ance, a fellow has often to wait three minutes before his table can be
cleared and the wine brought ? I am not hostile to the Clergy, Sir,
far from it, and I willingly assume that the Reverend Gentleman is
uninformed of these facts, and that his preposterous proposition would
never have been made had he possessed ampler knowledge. But in
the face of this painful destitution, in the presence of these revolting
details, it is mockery to ask the Clubs to squander funds in charity.
“ I do not insist, Sir, upon the impropriety of a Club’s making a
public contribution, and proclaiming its almsgiving, though such a
thought might have occurred to a minister of the Establishment. But
charity should be a secret matter, of which the world should have no
knowledge. ‘What I give is nothing to nobody’ was the admirable
remark of one of the most distinguished Members of Parliament. The
ostentation which would be manifested by Club donations would be most
objectionable to the feelings of Club-men, who are celebrated for prac-
tising the truly Christian virtue of retiring modesty upon the subject
of any good deeds they may do, should they happen to do any.
“ 1 will only add, Sir, that should the plausible but most improper
appeal of the Rev. Mr. Kempe produce any effect upon our Com-
mittee (not that I would wrong them by believing it possible), I, for
one, will leave no stone unturned to eject that Committee from office at
the earliest opportunity, and I have the honour to be, Sir,
“ Your very obedient Servant,
“Thomas Antikempis.”
“ P.S. The poor, I am given to understand, have Clubs of their own.
Let them apply there for assistance, if they want it. We occasionally
send the hat round for a Swell—properly recommended by Swells—so
it is unjust to accuse us of illiberality.”
PORTRAIT OF il YE WIFE OF BATH.” FROM MR. PUNCH’S
COPY OF CHAUCER.
Character Read in a Weed.—The thistle is a fit emblem for
Scotland—it is so remarkably downy.
The Movement of Events in Italy.—“St. Peter’s Chair stops
the way.”
Vol. 39.
a