DOI Heft:
July 7, 1860
DOI Seite / Zitierlink:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.16866#0017
July 7, 1SG0.]
PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI.
PUNCH’S BOOK OF BRITISH COSTUMES.
CHAPTER XXL —MORE ABOUT THE LADIES OF THE
TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES.
Although the ladies of this period were doubtless censured by
Their husbands for extravagance in dress, we really think them far
'more moderate than some of their descendants. We could, for in-
•st.ance, cite a register to show that sixty shillings only was the cost
of a new robe; and we could also quote a warrant which was issued
‘by King John, ordering the purchase of two robes for the Queen,
whereof each was to consist of five ells only of cloth. When one
“reflects that in these days of unconscionable crinoline as much as
twenty yards is far too little for a dress, one can’t help wishing one
>could take a leaf out of King John’s book, and limit one’s Jemima
to the six yards and a quarter with which a Queen in the twelfth
•century was, doubtless, well content.
The robe, as we have said, was an undergown with sleeves, and it
“appears that, during John’s reign green was generally considered the
most fashionable colour for it. Hence we may remark, that pretty
girls who wore it might have been asked why they resembled the fields
in the Creation ; the answer, of course, being, that they were “ With
Verdure Clad,” and, no doubt, “ de
lightful to the ravished sense” of
their admirers. Express mention of
this colour is made in both the war-
rant and the register referred to, and
we likewise find allusion to it in the
accounts given of the flight of Wil-
liam Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, who
was Regent during Richard's ab-
sence in the East. We learn from
Matthew Paris that the Bishop ran
away* “disguised in a green woman’s
tunic;” but who was the “ green wo-
man,” whose robe he ran away in, the
writer of this passage does not pro-
ceed to say.
Over their robes on swell occasions
the ladies wore a mantle, which was
splendidly embroidered, that of Queen
Eleanor being sprinkled with a lot
of golden crescents. Under this, or
on ordinary days perhaps in lieu of it,
they wore a closely-fitting garment,
which being richly furred, was called pelisson, or pelisse; a name said
do be derived from pellelier, a furrier. King John orders a grey one,
with nine bars of fur, to be made up for his Queen: + and we learn,
■from an old jest book, that when she tried it on the King made some
■mild joke about her being in the pelisse.
A garment called a bliaus (whence, doubtless, the modern blouse), is
•also mentioned at this period as being worn over the robe; but it
appears that the word bliaus was only another name for the surcoat
or supertunic. Eor winter use, we learn, the bliaus was lined with fur;
but we cannot say if it was waterproofed for summer, as, were it now
in wearing, it certainly would need to be.
The wimple, of which mention is first made during King John’s
time, was an under-veil or kerchief wrapped round the head and chin,
and at times completely enveloping the neck. For the nuns and
poorer classes it was made of linen, and fastened on the forehead with
a plain fillet to match : but the swellesses all wore it of gold tissue or
rich silk, and had their fillets jewelled with gems which, Cox remarks,
some jew ’eld not unfrequently in pawn for them.
The peplum, or veil, was worn over the wimple; and above them
both was often placed a diadem or garland, or else a small round hat
•or cap. Isabel, the sister of King Henry the Third, is described
by Matthew Paris as taking off her hat and veil, so as to let the
people see her face, which, if she was pretty, was a vastly proper
action in her. We find too, from the famous Homan de la Rose (a
poem we shall have more fully to refer to), that at times a floral
chaplet was worn besides the diadem or coronal of gold, as bears
witness the couplet:—
“ Ung cliappel de roses tout frais
Eut dessus le chappel d’Orfrays.”
* We surely need not caution our enlightened readers against believing the
surmise of Cox, the Finsbury Historian, that it was from his creditors the Bishop
ran away ; nor need we refute the further supposition, that it was at Runnymede
that Longchamp set off running, in company, as Cox conjectures, with John Lack-
land, whose Estates had just been confiscated for his helping Titus Oates to get
up the Rye House Plot.
f “It appears from this, and from the warrant above quoted, that husbands in
these days used to order their wives’ dresses. Were this custom of the ‘ good old
times’ to be revived, wbat mints of money might be saved, and what preposterous
absurdities of crinoline be spared us!”—Punch. “And what frights you stingy
creatures would be sure to make of us ! ’’—Judy.
This fact is also mentioued in another ancieut poem, with which some
antiquarians may perhaps be less familiar
“ £fjce Lore a Snreatljc of roses
ge l&ntgljtc fob™ fivste sfjee me;.,
a golic garlanhe the fjatifie slice on,’
To make Ijer sptfKerc gett.”
We regret to have to add (but Truth must not be sacrificed, though
gallantry might wish it so), that the ladies of this period were by no
means so attentive to their hands as to their heads, for though they
took great care to dress and decorate the former, they were actually
so vulgar as to leave the latter naked ! By the old illuminations the
clearest light is thrown on this appalling fact, and we have read in
black and white abundant other proof of it. Thus, when King Henry,
m the well-known ballad of “ tfagte Rcsamonhc,” mentions as his
reason for going down to Woodstock, that he merely wished to get
some gloves made for his wife, “ ye furious queene” throws instantly
discredit on the statement; and knowing that those articles of dress
were not in fashion, with a woman’s quick sagacity she jumps to the
conclusion that
“ ffitf Ijcc incut tfjir for GIobc=mahgng
ktt has httfjotitc g« ffi!”
lor further illustration of this love-story or glove-story, we may
well refer our readers to the Gallery of Illustration; where the tale
of “Rosa mutidi, non Rosa munda” will be classically told them by
one Johannes Parry in what, if not a parody, may at least be
termed a Parrvdy,
:FEMALE COSTUME. TWELFTH CENTURY.
iFROM THE PORTRAIT OF BISHOP LONG-
-CHAMP, IN A ELACK LETTER COPY OF
“YE HUE AND CRYE” OF THOSE DAYS.
(VERY SCARCE )
Puseyism in the Police Office.
The riots at St. George’s-in-the-East have not been stopped by
having frequently been brought before the Thames Police Court.
While the Rector of that parish persists in the puerility of playing at
Popery, it is not likelv that those disgraceful proceedings would ter-
minate even if his Church were situated in the district of Worship
Street.
DONNYBROOK IN THE PAPAL STATES.
Some of the Irish papers state that Dr. Cullen has thought it
necessary to endeavour to stay the rather overflowing tide of emigra-
tion to Rome. This is not unlikely. Cullen is probably well enough
acquainted with his countrymen to perceive that his master the Pope
may find too much of au Irish contingent too much of a good thing.
Pugnacity is well known to be a very prominent feature of the Hiber-
nian character; and if Lamoriciere cannot immediately find his
Emerald Islanders a foe, _ they^ may very possibly take it into their
heads to choose antagonists for themselves. Generosity, however
capable of perversion, being another of Paddy’s principal qualities,
it may happen that when the Irish auxiliaries of His Holiness dis-
cover that they have been humbugged by their priests, and crimped
by 1 hose fraudulent ecclesiastics for the support of a shameful des-
potism, the enemy whom they will select will not be United Italy.
If, may, indeed, be expected, that the slogan of Erin Go Braga ! wi
ultimately be raised under the banner of Garibaldi.
Vol. 39.
1—2
PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI.
PUNCH’S BOOK OF BRITISH COSTUMES.
CHAPTER XXL —MORE ABOUT THE LADIES OF THE
TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES.
Although the ladies of this period were doubtless censured by
Their husbands for extravagance in dress, we really think them far
'more moderate than some of their descendants. We could, for in-
•st.ance, cite a register to show that sixty shillings only was the cost
of a new robe; and we could also quote a warrant which was issued
‘by King John, ordering the purchase of two robes for the Queen,
whereof each was to consist of five ells only of cloth. When one
“reflects that in these days of unconscionable crinoline as much as
twenty yards is far too little for a dress, one can’t help wishing one
>could take a leaf out of King John’s book, and limit one’s Jemima
to the six yards and a quarter with which a Queen in the twelfth
•century was, doubtless, well content.
The robe, as we have said, was an undergown with sleeves, and it
“appears that, during John’s reign green was generally considered the
most fashionable colour for it. Hence we may remark, that pretty
girls who wore it might have been asked why they resembled the fields
in the Creation ; the answer, of course, being, that they were “ With
Verdure Clad,” and, no doubt, “ de
lightful to the ravished sense” of
their admirers. Express mention of
this colour is made in both the war-
rant and the register referred to, and
we likewise find allusion to it in the
accounts given of the flight of Wil-
liam Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, who
was Regent during Richard's ab-
sence in the East. We learn from
Matthew Paris that the Bishop ran
away* “disguised in a green woman’s
tunic;” but who was the “ green wo-
man,” whose robe he ran away in, the
writer of this passage does not pro-
ceed to say.
Over their robes on swell occasions
the ladies wore a mantle, which was
splendidly embroidered, that of Queen
Eleanor being sprinkled with a lot
of golden crescents. Under this, or
on ordinary days perhaps in lieu of it,
they wore a closely-fitting garment,
which being richly furred, was called pelisson, or pelisse; a name said
do be derived from pellelier, a furrier. King John orders a grey one,
with nine bars of fur, to be made up for his Queen: + and we learn,
■from an old jest book, that when she tried it on the King made some
■mild joke about her being in the pelisse.
A garment called a bliaus (whence, doubtless, the modern blouse), is
•also mentioned at this period as being worn over the robe; but it
appears that the word bliaus was only another name for the surcoat
or supertunic. Eor winter use, we learn, the bliaus was lined with fur;
but we cannot say if it was waterproofed for summer, as, were it now
in wearing, it certainly would need to be.
The wimple, of which mention is first made during King John’s
time, was an under-veil or kerchief wrapped round the head and chin,
and at times completely enveloping the neck. For the nuns and
poorer classes it was made of linen, and fastened on the forehead with
a plain fillet to match : but the swellesses all wore it of gold tissue or
rich silk, and had their fillets jewelled with gems which, Cox remarks,
some jew ’eld not unfrequently in pawn for them.
The peplum, or veil, was worn over the wimple; and above them
both was often placed a diadem or garland, or else a small round hat
•or cap. Isabel, the sister of King Henry the Third, is described
by Matthew Paris as taking off her hat and veil, so as to let the
people see her face, which, if she was pretty, was a vastly proper
action in her. We find too, from the famous Homan de la Rose (a
poem we shall have more fully to refer to), that at times a floral
chaplet was worn besides the diadem or coronal of gold, as bears
witness the couplet:—
“ Ung cliappel de roses tout frais
Eut dessus le chappel d’Orfrays.”
* We surely need not caution our enlightened readers against believing the
surmise of Cox, the Finsbury Historian, that it was from his creditors the Bishop
ran away ; nor need we refute the further supposition, that it was at Runnymede
that Longchamp set off running, in company, as Cox conjectures, with John Lack-
land, whose Estates had just been confiscated for his helping Titus Oates to get
up the Rye House Plot.
f “It appears from this, and from the warrant above quoted, that husbands in
these days used to order their wives’ dresses. Were this custom of the ‘ good old
times’ to be revived, wbat mints of money might be saved, and what preposterous
absurdities of crinoline be spared us!”—Punch. “And what frights you stingy
creatures would be sure to make of us ! ’’—Judy.
This fact is also mentioued in another ancieut poem, with which some
antiquarians may perhaps be less familiar
“ £fjce Lore a Snreatljc of roses
ge l&ntgljtc fob™ fivste sfjee me;.,
a golic garlanhe the fjatifie slice on,’
To make Ijer sptfKerc gett.”
We regret to have to add (but Truth must not be sacrificed, though
gallantry might wish it so), that the ladies of this period were by no
means so attentive to their hands as to their heads, for though they
took great care to dress and decorate the former, they were actually
so vulgar as to leave the latter naked ! By the old illuminations the
clearest light is thrown on this appalling fact, and we have read in
black and white abundant other proof of it. Thus, when King Henry,
m the well-known ballad of “ tfagte Rcsamonhc,” mentions as his
reason for going down to Woodstock, that he merely wished to get
some gloves made for his wife, “ ye furious queene” throws instantly
discredit on the statement; and knowing that those articles of dress
were not in fashion, with a woman’s quick sagacity she jumps to the
conclusion that
“ ffitf Ijcc incut tfjir for GIobc=mahgng
ktt has httfjotitc g« ffi!”
lor further illustration of this love-story or glove-story, we may
well refer our readers to the Gallery of Illustration; where the tale
of “Rosa mutidi, non Rosa munda” will be classically told them by
one Johannes Parry in what, if not a parody, may at least be
termed a Parrvdy,
:FEMALE COSTUME. TWELFTH CENTURY.
iFROM THE PORTRAIT OF BISHOP LONG-
-CHAMP, IN A ELACK LETTER COPY OF
“YE HUE AND CRYE” OF THOSE DAYS.
(VERY SCARCE )
Puseyism in the Police Office.
The riots at St. George’s-in-the-East have not been stopped by
having frequently been brought before the Thames Police Court.
While the Rector of that parish persists in the puerility of playing at
Popery, it is not likelv that those disgraceful proceedings would ter-
minate even if his Church were situated in the district of Worship
Street.
DONNYBROOK IN THE PAPAL STATES.
Some of the Irish papers state that Dr. Cullen has thought it
necessary to endeavour to stay the rather overflowing tide of emigra-
tion to Rome. This is not unlikely. Cullen is probably well enough
acquainted with his countrymen to perceive that his master the Pope
may find too much of au Irish contingent too much of a good thing.
Pugnacity is well known to be a very prominent feature of the Hiber-
nian character; and if Lamoriciere cannot immediately find his
Emerald Islanders a foe, _ they^ may very possibly take it into their
heads to choose antagonists for themselves. Generosity, however
capable of perversion, being another of Paddy’s principal qualities,
it may happen that when the Irish auxiliaries of His Holiness dis-
cover that they have been humbugged by their priests, and crimped
by 1 hose fraudulent ecclesiastics for the support of a shameful des-
potism, the enemy whom they will select will not be United Italy.
If, may, indeed, be expected, that the slogan of Erin Go Braga ! wi
ultimately be raised under the banner of Garibaldi.
Vol. 39.
1—2