IMPRESSIONS OF GRANADA
interest of Granada to the real painter
lies in the actual life of the town as it is
to-day. I do not expect my opinion to
be endorsed by anyone who visits the
place for a day or so, drives to his hotel
through the Gran Via, and, after seeing
the Alhambra and Generalife, returns
by the same route to the station. The
Gran Via is a detestable creation of the
present-day Granadinos, enriched by the
produce of the Vega and reflecting the
abominable taste of such petty nuevos ricos
—nor are the people who use it as a
promenade exactly such as one would wish
to see immortalized on canvas. No—
the painter must give the Gran Via a
wide berth and wend his way into the
tortuous alleys of the old town ; here, at
every hand, is a picture ready-made—the
joint handiwork of the chance blending
of colours unconsciously afforded by
casual groups of people, donkeys with
their gay trappings, the colour-washed
houses, vegetable and fruit stores, clothes
hung out to dry, all picked out in kaleido-
scopic patterns of light and shade by that
prince of artists, the sun. a a a
Then he must direct his steps along the
Carrera del Dauro, a narrow carriage-
way flanking the river, with ancient bridges
connecting it with the opposite bank.
Here the high houses are huddled under
the overshadowing mass of the Alcazaba,
forming, with the towers above and the
river below, a score of fascinating composi-
tions. The Carrera is also the highway to
the Avellano, from whose spring the
water-carriers bring pure water into the city
by means of donkeys, forming thus an
almost incessant stream of men and beasts
coming and going from dawn till nightfall.
This is, again, the route to the gipsy
quarter, where a large colony of these
dusky folk have been settled for five or
more centuries, inhabiting a veritable
network of caves hollowed out of the
cactus-covered hillside. These gipsies, or
Gitanos, are not held in high esteem by
u CUMULUS CLOUDS OVER THE SACRO
MONTE, GRANADA.” FROM A LEAE>
PENCIL SKETCH BY WYNNE APPERLEY, R.I.
84
interest of Granada to the real painter
lies in the actual life of the town as it is
to-day. I do not expect my opinion to
be endorsed by anyone who visits the
place for a day or so, drives to his hotel
through the Gran Via, and, after seeing
the Alhambra and Generalife, returns
by the same route to the station. The
Gran Via is a detestable creation of the
present-day Granadinos, enriched by the
produce of the Vega and reflecting the
abominable taste of such petty nuevos ricos
—nor are the people who use it as a
promenade exactly such as one would wish
to see immortalized on canvas. No—
the painter must give the Gran Via a
wide berth and wend his way into the
tortuous alleys of the old town ; here, at
every hand, is a picture ready-made—the
joint handiwork of the chance blending
of colours unconsciously afforded by
casual groups of people, donkeys with
their gay trappings, the colour-washed
houses, vegetable and fruit stores, clothes
hung out to dry, all picked out in kaleido-
scopic patterns of light and shade by that
prince of artists, the sun. a a a
Then he must direct his steps along the
Carrera del Dauro, a narrow carriage-
way flanking the river, with ancient bridges
connecting it with the opposite bank.
Here the high houses are huddled under
the overshadowing mass of the Alcazaba,
forming, with the towers above and the
river below, a score of fascinating composi-
tions. The Carrera is also the highway to
the Avellano, from whose spring the
water-carriers bring pure water into the city
by means of donkeys, forming thus an
almost incessant stream of men and beasts
coming and going from dawn till nightfall.
This is, again, the route to the gipsy
quarter, where a large colony of these
dusky folk have been settled for five or
more centuries, inhabiting a veritable
network of caves hollowed out of the
cactus-covered hillside. These gipsies, or
Gitanos, are not held in high esteem by
u CUMULUS CLOUDS OVER THE SACRO
MONTE, GRANADA.” FROM A LEAE>
PENCIL SKETCH BY WYNNE APPERLEY, R.I.
84