DOI Heft:
October 13, 1866
DOI Seite / Zitierlink: https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.16878#0157
I
October 13, 1866.] PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI. 149
A GENTLE STIMULANT.
Old Gent. “Now, then, what ake you Pulling up for?”
Chair Man. “Beg Pardon, Sir, but I’m only Waiting tor t’other Man, ’cause we’re going to Race down the Hill, Sir.’
THE CRUELTIES OE COOKERY.
Dear Punch,
We consider the Chinese an unenlightened people, but in
some respects they clearly are more clever than ourselves. Por instance,
it is known that they invented gunpowder long ere we had dreamed of
it, and that they hatched fish artificially long before ourselves : nor can j
we regard them as being very much behind us in enlightenment, ;
because we chanced to be before them in lighting streets with gas.
While we call them semi-civilised, they term us mere barbarians,
and certainly in some respects we quite deserve the name.
In our cookery for instance we clearly are most barbarous, when
compared with many nations, including the Chinese. Not but what a
haunch of venison, as served up at some tables, is a pleasant dish
enough; and a good plum-pudding, even, is not a thing to sneer at, or
a slice of tender, juicy, well-cooked English beef. Nor am I altogether
tempted to exchange our simple modest apple-dumplings for the glu-
tinous and gummy, and far more cloying dainties which are dished for
the Chinese. Still with profit we might take a leaf out of their cookery
books, in respect of the vast care with which their dishes are prepared,
and the persevering industry with which they study to invent surprises
for the palate, and educe the finest flavour from the meats they have
to cook.
We read, for instance, that they make a most delicious dainty by
placing living ducks upon a heated iron plate, which is thinly covered
with seasoning and sauce. By the heat the blood is gradually attracted
to the feet, which thus are swollen by degrees to a considerable size,
and are most deliciously impregnated with spice. As the warmth
becomes unpleasant, the ducks lift up their legs continually, and paddle
to and fro, and their toes grow nicely soft and tender with the exercise,
much in the same manner as the flesh of hunted hares. The cook
stands by, the while, and watches them most carefully, and gradually
increases the fire which is beneath them, until the feet are cooked. Then
he chops them off, and serves them up for dinner, and gourmets taste
a luxury to dream about at nights.
Such cookery no doubt must be considered somewhat cruel, and
doubtless this consideration would prevent an English palate fronr
relishing the dish. But the Chinese are too wise to reflect upon.the
subject, and pay little heed to sufferings which give them satisfaction,
and add a fresh enjoyment to the pleasures of a feast. Besides, it
really is not certain that the ducks are made unhappy by thus being
slowly cooked. Perhaps they feel that they die martyrs in the noble
cause of cookery, and are solaced in their sufferings by the thought
that they will certainly be held in quit.e the highest estimation after
death. Instead of feeling consolation in selfishly reflecting that they
die extremely tough, as the remarkably old turkey is amusingly re-
ported by Sam. Weller to have done, perhaps while they are dabbling in
the heated spices, they feebly quack a little to express their satisfac-
tion that men will be made happy by eating their poor feet.
Eully trusting this is so, and strongly wishing that our cooks would
learn from the Chinese to give such patient, watchful heed to the pre-
paring of their dishes, I beg leave to smack my lips at the thought of
spiced duck’s feet, and sign myself yours most serenely,
Epicurus Smith.
P.S. The camel has seven stomachs. How I envy the camel! Con-
ceive the luxury of filling them with Chinese spiced-alive duck’s feet!
The Protestant Entrenchment in Ireland.
Archbishop Trench, in his late Charge, has taken up the cudgels
for the Irish Protestant Church Establishment, and its endowment of
£450,000 a-year, for a Church which includes less than twelve per cent,
of the population, against nearly seventy-eight per cent, ot Roman
Catholics. We often hear it said that the defenders of the Irish
Protestant establishment are ready to die in the last ditch for their
Church and its endowment. What if that last ditch should prove to be
the Trench in question.
Sporting.—How to know a Racing Prophet.—By the tip of his
tongue.
October 13, 1866.] PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI. 149
A GENTLE STIMULANT.
Old Gent. “Now, then, what ake you Pulling up for?”
Chair Man. “Beg Pardon, Sir, but I’m only Waiting tor t’other Man, ’cause we’re going to Race down the Hill, Sir.’
THE CRUELTIES OE COOKERY.
Dear Punch,
We consider the Chinese an unenlightened people, but in
some respects they clearly are more clever than ourselves. Por instance,
it is known that they invented gunpowder long ere we had dreamed of
it, and that they hatched fish artificially long before ourselves : nor can j
we regard them as being very much behind us in enlightenment, ;
because we chanced to be before them in lighting streets with gas.
While we call them semi-civilised, they term us mere barbarians,
and certainly in some respects we quite deserve the name.
In our cookery for instance we clearly are most barbarous, when
compared with many nations, including the Chinese. Not but what a
haunch of venison, as served up at some tables, is a pleasant dish
enough; and a good plum-pudding, even, is not a thing to sneer at, or
a slice of tender, juicy, well-cooked English beef. Nor am I altogether
tempted to exchange our simple modest apple-dumplings for the glu-
tinous and gummy, and far more cloying dainties which are dished for
the Chinese. Still with profit we might take a leaf out of their cookery
books, in respect of the vast care with which their dishes are prepared,
and the persevering industry with which they study to invent surprises
for the palate, and educe the finest flavour from the meats they have
to cook.
We read, for instance, that they make a most delicious dainty by
placing living ducks upon a heated iron plate, which is thinly covered
with seasoning and sauce. By the heat the blood is gradually attracted
to the feet, which thus are swollen by degrees to a considerable size,
and are most deliciously impregnated with spice. As the warmth
becomes unpleasant, the ducks lift up their legs continually, and paddle
to and fro, and their toes grow nicely soft and tender with the exercise,
much in the same manner as the flesh of hunted hares. The cook
stands by, the while, and watches them most carefully, and gradually
increases the fire which is beneath them, until the feet are cooked. Then
he chops them off, and serves them up for dinner, and gourmets taste
a luxury to dream about at nights.
Such cookery no doubt must be considered somewhat cruel, and
doubtless this consideration would prevent an English palate fronr
relishing the dish. But the Chinese are too wise to reflect upon.the
subject, and pay little heed to sufferings which give them satisfaction,
and add a fresh enjoyment to the pleasures of a feast. Besides, it
really is not certain that the ducks are made unhappy by thus being
slowly cooked. Perhaps they feel that they die martyrs in the noble
cause of cookery, and are solaced in their sufferings by the thought
that they will certainly be held in quit.e the highest estimation after
death. Instead of feeling consolation in selfishly reflecting that they
die extremely tough, as the remarkably old turkey is amusingly re-
ported by Sam. Weller to have done, perhaps while they are dabbling in
the heated spices, they feebly quack a little to express their satisfac-
tion that men will be made happy by eating their poor feet.
Eully trusting this is so, and strongly wishing that our cooks would
learn from the Chinese to give such patient, watchful heed to the pre-
paring of their dishes, I beg leave to smack my lips at the thought of
spiced duck’s feet, and sign myself yours most serenely,
Epicurus Smith.
P.S. The camel has seven stomachs. How I envy the camel! Con-
ceive the luxury of filling them with Chinese spiced-alive duck’s feet!
The Protestant Entrenchment in Ireland.
Archbishop Trench, in his late Charge, has taken up the cudgels
for the Irish Protestant Church Establishment, and its endowment of
£450,000 a-year, for a Church which includes less than twelve per cent,
of the population, against nearly seventy-eight per cent, ot Roman
Catholics. We often hear it said that the defenders of the Irish
Protestant establishment are ready to die in the last ditch for their
Church and its endowment. What if that last ditch should prove to be
the Trench in question.
Sporting.—How to know a Racing Prophet.—By the tip of his
tongue.