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October 1, 1887.] PUNCH, OR THE LONDON CHARIVARI. 155

(NOT AT ALL) BAD HOMBUKG.
Travel Notes, from the Diary of Toby, M.P,

Thursday.—Homburg emptying and re-filling; but
iormer process decidedly winning race. Change in class
ot company moreover striking. Natural order of things
here reversed. The butterfly disappears and the grub
succeeds. Now have come to us young men and maidens
|rom the country. Elderly burgesses, wives and families
p°.m Frankfort, Coblentz and more distant Cologne,
prices specially designed for English falling away,
principal hotels humbly proffer pension at ten marks a
9*y> and proprietors are accused of rapacity by their
ieuow-countrymen.

At table d'hote last night at Hotel Russie, overheard
°n.e of those "things one would rather not have said,"
leigned by the fancy of English Artist of world-wide
renown. Gentleman of distinguished appearance opens
conversation with lady on his left:

" Homburg still seems very full."

a he. "Yes, but they 're a horrid lot now arriving'com-

17- th°Se Wh° kaVe J'USt left' don0na think S0 ? "

, «e. "Really, Madam, I cannot say, as I reached
j§ 9nly this afternoon." Pause in conversation.
Friday. — There are compensations for everything,
feather has not permanently recovered earthquake-
M"<!aking-up on day of our arrival. Still sun occasion-
ally comes out, making it worth while to be on foot at
seven o'clock in the night, when the sky is an unclouded
I*0 of blue, and the sun sparkles on dewy grass. Pleasant
Men at noon, or afternoon, to stroll about under the lin-
aens in the Park, still full of leaves, or to lounge in Tennis
|r°unds watching the play. Of tener it is cold and rainy,
|nd here's where philosophic mind finds its recompense.
7S°niburg perhaps most open-windowed town north of
pPa- On sunny days not a window in any house closed.
riiV6ry Vome nas its piano, more or less in tune. Every
Piano has its relays of players. Pianist at No. 14a,
ntere Promenade, cannot help hearing pianiste next
_ °r> and plays loud to hold the field. Next door hears
practitioner on other side, and plays louder still; so it
K°es on all up and down the street. Here and there the
sam°a^ 18 pieroe<i by the shrill voice of a singer. It is the
Ho \ln nex* street, and in the street after, till all
No t ^ becomes a Pandemonium of piano-pounding.

?.7 sit in my room, with windows closed, listening
j?rcl1 gratitude to the pelting rain and the soughing of
Qe wind through the dripping trees. All other windows
™, necessarily closed, and above wind and rain is
nuible undertone of universal piano-playing, like the
»»und of a barrel-organ in far-off back-street. Perhaps
fn» q-?lte worth while coming all the way to Homburg

at ui 1 ^e to make best of things,
dntif n His Serene and Blind Highness still here,
comAl iy taking waters, and pluckily striding forth to
nffl i 4. regulation-turns. No one would guess at his
""MCtion. e-s-nonf „i„„„„i______*:__ a ----

which Vi i 011 vlew m one ot the istudios here, in
bia sr,Pe looks forth open-eyed as keenest-sighted of
AU DJects_; a kindly, genial, brave-hearted gentleman.
d„_ °nscious, he is made the occasion for a little satire

on T?<T u ' ne 18 'nade the occasion Tor a little satire
hini kH' wh-i(AL.would bave delighted Thackeray. To
SentlerMles'.entering into passing conversation, curtsey ;
stands >fn their hats; and Jeam.es de la Pluche
sunn™ "are-headed as he hands him glass of water from

spring —H . caaeu as ne nanas mm eiass oi water irom
impunit v horrible to think that Jeames might, with
Plavfi n^^there being no on-lookers—shake his fist
takes b m his R°yal Master's face.. Hope he never
a look i t advantage of his opportunities. But there is
WhiVn 1? James's eye, as he hands the glass of water,

Tu ttellke8 not.
v°lvin —Between one and two in afternoon of re-
^Bahv'h i^Sl ereat centre of life in Homburg is Madame
first el "e shop iu Louisen-strasse; little only on
whithe oe: contains unsuspected recesses in rear,
light ltf s?rP'us population flows. A model place for
lish viVt on suon as Dr. Deetz ordains: also for Eng-
Sossii) „ °J3 convenient exchange and mart for latest
lull tidp\r jlsPiay of newest dresses. Whilst season in
at Paris' £aame brahe'spainfullyreminiscentof Bourse
effect • p communications have wrought proverbial
their « ermarj8 feared throughout Europe by reason of
some epT1IiTersational sbouting ; but English ladies, and
might • men> met for luncheon chez Madame Brahe,
8We them odds and beat them. Three or four

A STRAIGHT TIP.

"A—a—Boy ! Have you seen any Birds about here this Morning?"

" EES, zur ! I seed a lot of 'em about 'are an hour back, a SITTIn'

on the Telegraph Woires ! "

girls, decently spoken at home one hopes, seated at small table here, carry on
conversation at top of voice; many small tables, and as many friendly parties ;
one group not to be shouted down by a neighbour. British ladies never
acknowledge defeat; competition kept up all round, till, dazed and deafened,
the stray traveller gulps down luncheon and rushes into street.

Wednesday.—Homburg really not Bad at all, but best part of it lies outside.
To the north are delightful walks through illimitable beech woods and pathless
pine forests. Messrs. Blanc, who created the place, knew very well raling
passion of gamester. The green tables, the sound of the roulette ball, the pattern
on the cards, and the brilliantly-lighted Casino, only ostensibly attractions for
him. What his heart desires is opportunity for communing with Nature. The
solemn silence of the beech wood, the fragrance of the pines, the modest beauty of
the wild flowers that gem the edges of the wood, are what he really hankers for.
So Messrs. Blanc took surrounding country in hand; planted splendid pine woods
with delightful footpaths, with benches wooing the pensive and wearied traveller.

Walked to-day by devious shady ways to Friedrichsdorf, a few miles out; a
quaint old-world village of charmingly-tiled houses, straggling down a
villanously paved street. Only one street m Friedrichsdorf, but more m it than
meets the eye. Houses have way of playing hide-and-seek; you look up passage
that seems entry to back of premises, when, lo! there lurks a complete house,
with tiny casement-windows, and graciously-sloped red-tiled roof. Jessie
Collings ought to know Friedrichsdorf, and Right Hon. Ritchie would find
in it encouragement for Amended Allotments Bill. it is, like many other villages
hereabout, home of colony of small land-proprietors.. All the rich and smiling
country that lies around is theirs. Passed them working in the fields, men and
women, comfortably dressed, sturdy, and apparently happy as day is long.
Every man has at least his three acres, many more; the cow is also there, but is
chiefly in shaft of cart or plough. As we picked way down awesome street,
Friedrichsdorf, save for few children and old men, seemed deserted village;
all able-bodied inhabitants at work in held. By-and-by, when sun goes down,
they come trooping home, tramping down stony street, a jocund throng.

Thursday.—Rain departed ; for days m succession Homburg been at its best •
almost seems like early spring, save that we still have roses ; sun shining in
cloudless sky, trees still rich in foliage; grass thick and green, with here and
there abundant crocuses. Still emptying process going on with increasing
rapidity. "Lawn tennis," writes anonymous author of Miss Bayle's Romance,
"has become the outdoor dissipation at Homburg, and Dutch Top the indoor
one." Only stray couples are left to frequent the courts on the tennis-ground,
and the rattle of the Dutch Top is happily silenced. Still the band plays thrice a
day. Springs go on like The Brook, and the few who are left begin to think
that, after all, Homburg more enjoyable without the crowd than with it.
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Punch
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Du Maurier, George
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um 1887
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1882 - 1892
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London

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Punch, 93.1887, October 1, 1887, S. 155

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