DOI issue:
Werbung
DOI article:Levetus, A. S.: Some modern Austrian pillow and point lace
DOI Page / Citation link:https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.26228#0239
77b/7T't777
by Fraulein Hofmanninger, at once shows the new
departure from beaten tracks. The large amount
of openwork requires a very delicate and subtle
hand, such as can only be met with in the best-
trained workers, for they must also possess artistic
feeling for the work they are carrying out, and be
in touch with the designer. The holes are made
in much the same way as in needlework, but with
this difference : that instead of working on the
pattern, cutting out the hole first, the worker has
to form her holes by means of thread and then sew
over on that foundation, her only guide being
the traced pattern before her. The hardest
work of all is in keeping the stitches ilrm and
regular—a difhculty very few can even imagine.
The veining and contour of the leaves constitute
another arduous task. In old lace the contours
are Hat; here they are raised, the effect being gained
by applying the technique of embroidery to lace—
z'.e. by working over a layer of threads. The
stems are formed by a number of lines placed very
close together, instead, as in old lace, of being only
one line. This gives an added beauty, and is also
more true to nature. Another departure, which
will be recognised on examining the patterns here re-
produced, is that, instead of filling in the outlines of
leaves and flowers with a variation of stitches, they
are made on the net, so as to forrn a delicate back-
ground to the bold designs. In the fan designed by
V. Suchomel, the pattern is—by the vigour and
beauty of design and execution, showing, as it does,
a perfect harmony between artist and executant—
an original and effective piece of work. Each
bud is so separated from the other that the con-
tours can be distinctly recognised, while the ilrm-
ness and exactness of the lacemaker is such as can
only be found in trained workers ; and much is
due to the fact that the women rnust learn to draw
and understand what they are reproducing with
their needles. The lace by Frau Hrdlicka is beauti-
fully conceived and executed; the delicate leaves
are made of the very finest of cottons, and they
are thrown into relief by the heavy blossoms. On
examining this Austrian lace, one is struck by such
regularity of stitches as is rarely to be met with.
These contours are wonderfully even and well
curved, never running to an irregular point or being
unevenly sewn, such as is often the case in old
lace. One sees this again in a fan by Fraulein
Hofmanninger. The bold woodruff, standing out
from the waves of hne dainty grass, is a beautiful
thought; the lace-maker too has done her share ; for,
spite of the intricacies of the design, there is an
CORNER OF TABLE CLOTH DESIGNED BY FRAULEIN HOFMANNINGER
IN 1'ILLOW LACE EXECUTED BY THE IMI'ERIAL ROYAL
SCHOOL OF LACE-MAKING, -VIENNA
171
by Fraulein Hofmanninger, at once shows the new
departure from beaten tracks. The large amount
of openwork requires a very delicate and subtle
hand, such as can only be met with in the best-
trained workers, for they must also possess artistic
feeling for the work they are carrying out, and be
in touch with the designer. The holes are made
in much the same way as in needlework, but with
this difference : that instead of working on the
pattern, cutting out the hole first, the worker has
to form her holes by means of thread and then sew
over on that foundation, her only guide being
the traced pattern before her. The hardest
work of all is in keeping the stitches ilrm and
regular—a difhculty very few can even imagine.
The veining and contour of the leaves constitute
another arduous task. In old lace the contours
are Hat; here they are raised, the effect being gained
by applying the technique of embroidery to lace—
z'.e. by working over a layer of threads. The
stems are formed by a number of lines placed very
close together, instead, as in old lace, of being only
one line. This gives an added beauty, and is also
more true to nature. Another departure, which
will be recognised on examining the patterns here re-
produced, is that, instead of filling in the outlines of
leaves and flowers with a variation of stitches, they
are made on the net, so as to forrn a delicate back-
ground to the bold designs. In the fan designed by
V. Suchomel, the pattern is—by the vigour and
beauty of design and execution, showing, as it does,
a perfect harmony between artist and executant—
an original and effective piece of work. Each
bud is so separated from the other that the con-
tours can be distinctly recognised, while the ilrm-
ness and exactness of the lacemaker is such as can
only be found in trained workers ; and much is
due to the fact that the women rnust learn to draw
and understand what they are reproducing with
their needles. The lace by Frau Hrdlicka is beauti-
fully conceived and executed; the delicate leaves
are made of the very finest of cottons, and they
are thrown into relief by the heavy blossoms. On
examining this Austrian lace, one is struck by such
regularity of stitches as is rarely to be met with.
These contours are wonderfully even and well
curved, never running to an irregular point or being
unevenly sewn, such as is often the case in old
lace. One sees this again in a fan by Fraulein
Hofmanninger. The bold woodruff, standing out
from the waves of hne dainty grass, is a beautiful
thought; the lace-maker too has done her share ; for,
spite of the intricacies of the design, there is an
CORNER OF TABLE CLOTH DESIGNED BY FRAULEIN HOFMANNINGER
IN 1'ILLOW LACE EXECUTED BY THE IMI'ERIAL ROYAL
SCHOOL OF LACE-MAKING, -VIENNA
171