DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.519#0057
LINEN OF FIRST DYNASTY
49
selvage. Amongst the small pieces sent on March
4th, 1913, there are three with the selvage to them—
2050/1, 2, and 6. These are described later on, but
it would be interesting to have larger pieces of each
of the other cloths to see how their edges are finished
off. Our knowledge on the subject at present is
too empirical to draw conclusions ; but if a greater
number of examples could be examined, probably a
safe inference might be drawn as to the evolution of
the modern selvage—that is, where the weft is passed
continuously from side to side across the warp
strands.
It is very remarkable that so many of these fabrics
have both warp and weft yarns doubled, because it
was generally supposed that the principle of doubling
to obtain more than twice the strength originated in
Nottingham during the first half of last century. It
will be seen that in seventeen out of the twenty
fabrics, the warps were all doubled, while there are
twelve in which the weft is also doubled. Another
peculiarity is that some of the warps are in parallel
pairs—that is, there are two warps side by side in one
"shed" of weft, as shown in photographs 9, 11, and 12.
In each case a bit of cloth about ij inch x % inch
was mounted, without pressure, beneath thin cover-
glass for microscopic examination. Then from each
cloth strands of the warp and weft yarns were
separated, and some of the fibres teased out with
needles ; these were also mounted under thin glass,
the warp and weft ones being kept separate, though
on the same slide. To obtain the average diameter,
ten fibres of each were measured: these measure-
ments, as well as the extreme range of them, are
given in the appended tables. No fibre was measured
unless it showed the characteristic " bamboo-struc-
ture" peculiar to flax.
Notes on the linen from Mastaba 2038 (three
specimens):
(1) A fine cloth, with about half the warp yarns
doubled, while all the weft is doubled. See
photograph 4.
(2) A remarkably open, rough-looking cloth in
which all the yarns are doubled, and in some of the
warp strands are two yarns running parallel in one
"shed" of the weft, Although apparently a coarse
cloth the flax fibres are individually very fine and
fully separated.
(3) A closely woven cloth of fine fibre. Both
the warp and weft yarns are doubled. There was
so much granular deposit upon this and some of the
other cloths, probably due to the crystallization of
7
mineral salts, that to assist in their examination it
was found desirable to take it away by soaking in
water, and drying.
Notes on linen from Mastaba 2050 (seventeen
specimens) :
(4) About J inch of the margin is much closer
in composition than the inner part, there being here
48 " ends " per inch, whereas the rest of the cloth has
only 36. At first it was thought the weft yarns
were only secured at the side by turning round the
outer warp thread ; but, upon dissecting a little under
water, it was found to have the weft turned and
continued across the warps again, forming a true
selvage. A peculiarity of the fabric is that the warp
yarns (doubled) are more than four times the thick-
ness of the weft. See photograph 5.
(5) This is structurally the most interesting cloth
in the lot. The selvage (?) is peculiar, as shewn in
photograph 6, where it will be seen the weft does
not return again across the warp, but is turned once
or twice round the outer warp and then the ends left
free. This is so remarkable that, to bring out this
peculiarity clearer, all the warp strands except the
outside ones were removed, then mounted in Canada
balsam and photograph 7 taken. All the warp yarns
are doubled, and are fully twice the diameter of the
weft. For about \ inch at the side the cloth has
84"ends," whereas the inner part has only 40 "ends"
per inch. A photograph of this more open portion
of the fabric is given in photograph 8.
(6) Both warp and weft yarns are doubled.
There are about four instances per inch where the
warps run in parallel pairs, as shewn in photograph 9.
(7) The cloth coated with crystalline deposit.
Both warp and weft yarns are doubled and are very
even in diameter.
(8) In this cloth about 25 per cent, of the warp
and 10 per cent, of the weft yarns are doubled, and
all are very regular in diameter.
(9) A very fine fabric. All the warp yarns are
doubled, while the weft is of single yarns, with about
every fifth "shed " containing two weft yarns parallel.
The selvage of this cloth approximates closely with
modern ones. See photograph 10.
(10) A fine cloth, with most of the warps doubled;
odd ones, however, are single but in parallel pairs.
The weft all of single yarns,
(11) All the warps are doubled, as well as a large
proportion of the weft. Instances occur where there
are two warps running parallel in one " shed," as may
be seen in photograph 9.
49
selvage. Amongst the small pieces sent on March
4th, 1913, there are three with the selvage to them—
2050/1, 2, and 6. These are described later on, but
it would be interesting to have larger pieces of each
of the other cloths to see how their edges are finished
off. Our knowledge on the subject at present is
too empirical to draw conclusions ; but if a greater
number of examples could be examined, probably a
safe inference might be drawn as to the evolution of
the modern selvage—that is, where the weft is passed
continuously from side to side across the warp
strands.
It is very remarkable that so many of these fabrics
have both warp and weft yarns doubled, because it
was generally supposed that the principle of doubling
to obtain more than twice the strength originated in
Nottingham during the first half of last century. It
will be seen that in seventeen out of the twenty
fabrics, the warps were all doubled, while there are
twelve in which the weft is also doubled. Another
peculiarity is that some of the warps are in parallel
pairs—that is, there are two warps side by side in one
"shed" of weft, as shown in photographs 9, 11, and 12.
In each case a bit of cloth about ij inch x % inch
was mounted, without pressure, beneath thin cover-
glass for microscopic examination. Then from each
cloth strands of the warp and weft yarns were
separated, and some of the fibres teased out with
needles ; these were also mounted under thin glass,
the warp and weft ones being kept separate, though
on the same slide. To obtain the average diameter,
ten fibres of each were measured: these measure-
ments, as well as the extreme range of them, are
given in the appended tables. No fibre was measured
unless it showed the characteristic " bamboo-struc-
ture" peculiar to flax.
Notes on the linen from Mastaba 2038 (three
specimens):
(1) A fine cloth, with about half the warp yarns
doubled, while all the weft is doubled. See
photograph 4.
(2) A remarkably open, rough-looking cloth in
which all the yarns are doubled, and in some of the
warp strands are two yarns running parallel in one
"shed" of the weft, Although apparently a coarse
cloth the flax fibres are individually very fine and
fully separated.
(3) A closely woven cloth of fine fibre. Both
the warp and weft yarns are doubled. There was
so much granular deposit upon this and some of the
other cloths, probably due to the crystallization of
7
mineral salts, that to assist in their examination it
was found desirable to take it away by soaking in
water, and drying.
Notes on linen from Mastaba 2050 (seventeen
specimens) :
(4) About J inch of the margin is much closer
in composition than the inner part, there being here
48 " ends " per inch, whereas the rest of the cloth has
only 36. At first it was thought the weft yarns
were only secured at the side by turning round the
outer warp thread ; but, upon dissecting a little under
water, it was found to have the weft turned and
continued across the warps again, forming a true
selvage. A peculiarity of the fabric is that the warp
yarns (doubled) are more than four times the thick-
ness of the weft. See photograph 5.
(5) This is structurally the most interesting cloth
in the lot. The selvage (?) is peculiar, as shewn in
photograph 6, where it will be seen the weft does
not return again across the warp, but is turned once
or twice round the outer warp and then the ends left
free. This is so remarkable that, to bring out this
peculiarity clearer, all the warp strands except the
outside ones were removed, then mounted in Canada
balsam and photograph 7 taken. All the warp yarns
are doubled, and are fully twice the diameter of the
weft. For about \ inch at the side the cloth has
84"ends," whereas the inner part has only 40 "ends"
per inch. A photograph of this more open portion
of the fabric is given in photograph 8.
(6) Both warp and weft yarns are doubled.
There are about four instances per inch where the
warps run in parallel pairs, as shewn in photograph 9.
(7) The cloth coated with crystalline deposit.
Both warp and weft yarns are doubled and are very
even in diameter.
(8) In this cloth about 25 per cent, of the warp
and 10 per cent, of the weft yarns are doubled, and
all are very regular in diameter.
(9) A very fine fabric. All the warp yarns are
doubled, while the weft is of single yarns, with about
every fifth "shed " containing two weft yarns parallel.
The selvage of this cloth approximates closely with
modern ones. See photograph 10.
(10) A fine cloth, with most of the warps doubled;
odd ones, however, are single but in parallel pairs.
The weft all of single yarns,
(11) All the warps are doubled, as well as a large
proportion of the weft. Instances occur where there
are two warps running parallel in one " shed," as may
be seen in photograph 9.