International studio (32.1907)

Practical Bookbinding

TOOLS: i and 3, Fillets; 2, Agate Burnisher; 4, Hammer; 5 and6, Metal Burnishers;
7, Z>aw<2 Nippers; 8 and 15, Paring Knives; 9 awe? 14, Paper Knives; 10 awe? it,
Compasses; 12, Paste Brush; 17 awe? 18, Drawing Tools; 19, Gold Knife; 13, Pattern
for cutting corners of leather in covering,

coated with oil and fine emery powder, are neces-
sary. The latter, laid on the table when paring,
one end under the right edge of the paring-stone,
is in constant use when paring leather.

While it is necessary to have knives ground only
from time to time, it is constantly necessary to
sharpen up the edges, and even a novice may learn
in a short time how to use all the above. It is abso-
lutely necessary to know how in order to save one’s
self constant annoyance.

Gold leaf: There are many qualities of gold leaf
in the market—only the best should be used. While
it is well to be economical in the use of all supplies,
never hesitate to use plenty of gold, for on this, to a
large extent, depends the brightness of the tooling.
The most brilliant gold of domestic manufacture
is known as French No. i. A box, containing

twenty books of twenty-four leaves
each, costs at this date between
seven and eight dollars, and lasts
along time. Single books of twenty-
four leaves retail at from thirty-five
to forty cents each. The very best
quality of gold is the French color
“citron.” French gold costs almost
double the price of domestic. The
sheets are a bit larger, however, and
thicker, and it is of a higher fineness,
so that the real cost is about the
same, and it should be used in all
high-grade finishing.

Covering pad: When leather is
well moistened it is easily marred
by rough handling or contact with
any hard object. “Putting in leather”
should be done on a soft surface. It
is well, therefore, to cover a full-
sized sheet of mill-board with a
thick piece of skiver. Place this on
the bench and rest the book on it
when putting on the leather. A hole
cut through one edge allows it to be
hung on the wall when not in use.

Finishing blocks: These are most
useful in tooling, and I call them by
this name, though they are in daily
use for many other purposes, as, for
instance, cutting and pasting down
end-papers, etc. The upper surface
should also be covered with skiver.
The sizes most useful are 9 by 12 by
1 inch, 12 by 14 by ij inches, 12 by
20 by 2 inches, but one can get along
with one only. (See illustration.)

Another (see cut), covered with skiver, is most
useful in laying out and blinding in the straight
lines along the sides of the panels. With the back
at the upper part, the cover is raised two inches or
so to a level—a paperweight or similar object
slipped under it. Having marked at head and tail
where the outside lines of the panels are to come, a
straight-edge is laid on the cover, and with a sharp
folder the lines are marked on all the panels at
once, so they are exactly in line. The ruler may also
be used by the beginner for the preliminary blind-
ing-in of these lines.

Two or three small but heavy weights are needed
at all times. They may be small steel blocks such
as are used in blocking presses, or of lead. The
latter may be had at any large printer’s, being run
out of old type metal. A very convenient size is

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