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Warburton, Eliot
Travels in Egypt and the Holy Land, or, The crescent and the cross: comprising the romance and realities of eastern travel — Philadelphia, 1859

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.11448#0365

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CIIAE VI.]

THE HILL COUNTRY OF JUDEA.

57

would be impossible for cavalry to act, or even to advance against
a hostile force.

The scenery resembled that of the wildest glens of Scotland,
only that here the grey crags were thickly tufted with aromatic
shrubs, and, instead of the pine, the sycamore, the olive, and the
palm, shaded the mountain's side.

We passed by the village of Jeremiah, and " the Terebinthine
Vale." In the last we recognise the scene of David's combat
with Goliah, and its little brook still sparkles here as freshly as when
he picked thence pebbles to smite the Philistine. Generally speak-
ing, the river beds were as dry as the path we trod, and this was
the only stream but one that I saw between Jaffa and the Jordan.
A large caravan was assembled on its banks, with all its pic-
turesque variety of laden camels, mules with gay trappings,
mountain cavaliers with turban and embroidered vest, veiled
women on donkeys, half-naked Arabs with long spears, dwellers
in cities with dark kaftan, or furred pelisse. All, however various
their nation, profession or appearance, were eagerly quaffing the
precious stream, or waiting under " the shadow of a high rock"
for the caravan to proceed.

The hills became more and more precipitous as we approached
Jerusalem; most of them were of a conical form, and terraced
to their summit. Yet on these steep acclivities the strenuous
labour of the Israelite had formerly grown corn, and wine, and
oil; and, on the terraces that remained uninjured, the few pres-
ent inhabitants still plant wheat, and vineyards, and olive groves.
There was no appearance of water, except the inference that
might be drawn of wells within the few villages that hung upon
the mountains' side.

The pathway continued as rough as ever, while we wound
through the rocky defiles leading to the upper plains; but it was
much more frequented, and I had joined a large and various
company, for the sake of listening to their talk about the city that
now absorbed every other interest. At each acclivity we sur-
mounted, we were told that the next would reveal to us the object
of our destination; and at length, as we emerged upon a wide
and sterile plain, the leading pilgrims sank upon their knees—
 
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