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Warburton, Eliot
Travels in Egypt and the Holy Land, or, The crescent and the cross: comprising the romance and realities of eastern travel — Philadelphia, 1859

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.11448#0511

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CHAP. XIX ]

QUARANTINE.

197

tyrdom; man and nature have well avenged him ever since upon
the Smyrniotes. Earthquakes, plagues, and Turks have done
their worst to this devoted city, but the elastic energies of com-
merce have still sustained it in its troubles, and triumphed over
pestilence and persecution. The English almost monopolize the
fruit trade, the French devote themselves to cotton, and the
Dutch, who formerly held the principal commerce in their own
hands, have now scarcely a representative.

The heat of the climate here is moderated daily by a fresh
sea-breeze, that blows without intermission from noon till sunset,
at which time we sailed. The next day found ^s fa the Grecian
Archipelago, with Delos, Tenos, and Syra lying round us. We
cast anchor in the harbour of the latter towards evening, and
landed on a rocky promontory opposite the town.

Here we were to perform European quarantine, and our prison
looked dismal enough as the stormy evening set in, and the wind
howled round the naked walls and desolated rocks of our dwell-
ino;. But the next morning brought sunshine and cheerfulness :
our rooms were furnished, our books, &c. were unpacked, guar-
dianos were assigned us, and the British Consul kindly sent us a
file of newspapers.

We had three apartments, each of which had a sort of veran-
dah in front, looking out upon the sea; we called these the "bar-
racks," " the hareem," and " the monastery the latter was
mine alone, but in consideration of that privilege, it was also the
refectory, and we fitted up a sort of divan in the verandah, wherein
the lady's nargileh, or the masculine chibouque, were generally
sending up their incense. Our guardianos were three hideous,
little, old men, with unpronounceable Romaic names, so we nam-
ed them after the Graces, and they soon answered readily to the
appellations of Aglaia, Thalia, and Euphrosyne ! By many other
such devices did we seek to render our lives classical, but they
were not very successful; facts were strongly against us, and a
fortnight's imprisonment was an unfortunate introduction to the

" Clime of the unforgotten brave
Whose land from plain to mountain cave
Was Freedom's home or Glory's grave."
 
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