International studio — 81.1925

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T—tach century reveals the fact that often women have jeweler. From the crudest beginnings, up to the last refine-
I played an important part in constructive advance- ments of art, jewelry has ever been of intriguing interest
ment. In past times her work has been more or less to humanity, and is of great archeological importance, as
unacknowledged perhaps, but now it is an open and avowed revealing successive stages of culture in all countries. Most
factor in all lines of endeavor. Especially in artistic pur- literature on the subject comes from the pens of French
suits is she a welcome and invaluable adjunct, supplement- and German writers, but it was undoubtedly in Italy that
ing the progress of men with the intuitive genius of her sex.
First of all, home decoration, and everything pertaining to
domestic comfort and beauty, makes its bow to woman's
talent. Entirely new, and profoundly useful and interest-
ing, is the chosen work of A4rs. George Draper, who has
recently begun to develop a unique idea. Having acted for
years as unofficial advisor to friends who were groping in
the dark as to where and how and what to build, she has
capitalized her services and established the "Architectural
Clearing House, Inc." The office is in her own home, which
beautifully exemplifies her taste, and emphasizes her
ability. Illustrated here is a glimpse of her roof garden,
which opens off the dining room on the second floor. With
a true sense of color value, and architectural proportion,
it combines an atmosphere of comfort and intimate charm.
One is glad to linger here, and indeed, every room in this
original house has an appealing quality that detains the
visitor. Mrs. Draper is not an architect, and does not make
plans, but has the hearty co-operation of architects and
keeps on hand, in scrapbook form, photographs of the
work of the best firms of architects and landscape archi-
tects, furnished by them, so that one may readily decide
what type of house is desired, and be put in direct touch
with the architect who can best achieve it. Mrs. Draper's
service insures, as it were, against mistakes, and eliminates
uncertainty and waste of time. Varied, indeed, are her
talents and interests. Among other things, she specializes

work of helen sweetseh white, art alliance

the art reached its height, and Italian jewelry merits the
great reputation it has always possessed. The history of
the jeweler's art in Italy is written in the biographies of
those master sculptors and painters who worked first as
goldsmiths and jewelers, and throughout their careers
remained lovers of their original trade. In the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries Florence was the artistic centre of
Europe, and that awakening to the full joy of life, which
was so characteristic a feature of the Renaissance, brought
the goldsmith from the subordinate state he occupied in
medieval ages, to attain fame as a free artist. The making
of jewelry took its rightful place as one of the fine arts,
and Benvenute Cellini, the greatest goldsmith and jeweler
of the late Renaissance, was one of the artists of the period
in the remodeling of town and country houses, and when who gave to the world designs for jewelry which have
I called, she was busily engaged in consulting with an remained the highest standard of achievement in that line
architect, giving him the woman's point of view as to the of work. The fundamental motive of that standard was
best arrangement of apartments, relative to convenience, this—that the value of a piece of jewelry lies in design and
beauty and economy of space. So, no matter how or where workmanship—that stones and settings should be chosen
one wishes to domicile, this ingenious pioneer in a new field for their color values and decorative qualities, not for
offers invaluable conceptions and suggestions. intrinsic worth, and that each piece of jewelry should be

in itself a perfect work of art. The period dating from
he story of woman's achievement has many chapters Napoleon's accession to the throne of France, until about
and somewhere near the front of the book belongs 1814, was one of constructive artistic development in the
the work of Helen Sweetser White, goldsmith and history of jewelry, and, incidentally, is beautifully recorded

roof garden, house of mrs. draper



three ninety-three
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